Question:
I have an Ames 4” Model 3000SS that I’m trying to repair. I was told that the check valves are threaded into the body of the device and unscrew counterclockwise. I can’t seem to get them to even budge. I’m afraid that if I apply much more pressure, I’m going to break something. Could the checks be cross-threaded?
Mark:
Typically, the cam checks for this model shouldn’t be that difficult to remove. The thread pattern for each cam check is very large, so it would be nearly impossible to cross-thread into the body. First, let’s take a quick look at how the manufacturer instructs us to properly remove the checks. The #1 check needs to be removed before the #2 can be removed. If you’re unable to remove the #1 check by hand, Ames recommends using a long screwdriver on the seat portion of the check — either at the cam arm hinge point or the clapper hinge point — and apply pressure against the valve body for leverage. (It is important to remember that if you plan on using the first check valve again, do not use the cam arm as a handle.) The #2 check, which has four protruding lugs or studs in the seat, is easier to remove by placing a screwdriver between two of these studs and applying pressure counterclockwise.
Doug:
In some cases, the checks can be so difficult to remove that the screwdriver method recommended by Ames may not work at all. There are after-market tools manufactured to help remove these particular check valves. There are a few different removal tools available and most work very well. If you work on this model assembly often, we suggest investing in a check removal tool, which can make the job much easier.
Mark:
Be aware that there are certain situations when even the best-made tool will not budge the cam checks. The body of the Ames Silver Bullet series is made of stainless steel, which can flex or twist if torque is applied at the flange ends. This kind of stress can “egg shape” the stainless body. Even the slightest twist of the body will bind the threads of the cam checks and makes removing them virtually impossible. So, what causes the body to flex? Many times, this problem can arise if the piping
is not aligned correctly during the initial installation of the assembly. It can also happen if the underground piping settles or moves for any reason. This causes a
great deal of stress on the piping, fittings and any fixture in the system — especially the stainless steel body of the assembly.
Doug:
We have experienced instances of torque on the body so bad that the cam checks would unscrew from the body, but they could not be removed because the top access hole was twisted into an “oblong” shape. If the torque is slight, the cam check can normally unscrew, but the replacement will not thread into the body, giving the appearance of a defect with the threads. When this occurs, the only way to replace the cam checks is to relieve the stress or tension being placed on the assembly. The best remedy we’ve found is to simply loosen the gate valve flange bolts on both sides of the assembly. Be sure not to take the bolts completely out. The body should return to its original shape and allow you to replace the checks. Once the new checks are in place, then you can tighten up the flange bolts.
